The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko: Luxury Onsen & Lake Ashi Views - Expert Review & Booking Guide

Introduction

Hakone, a verdant sanctuary renowned for its volcanic hot springs, artistic heritage, and the majestic vistas of Mount Fuji, has long been a favored retreat from the metropolitan pulse of Tokyo. Amidst this picturesque landscape, on the tranquil southern shore of Lake Ashi, stands The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko. This property is more than a mere hotel; it is an architectural statement, a testament to mid-century design by the revered Murano Togo, seamlessly integrated into its breathtaking natural surroundings. My recent stay aimed to ascertain whether this establishment, celebrated for its panoramic lake views, refined service, and exclusive onsen facilities, truly offers an unparalleled luxury experience deserving of its reputation and the discerning traveler's investment. From the moment one approaches, the structure's organic lines and thoughtful placement suggest a dialogue with nature, promising a sojourn defined by elegance and profound tranquility.

History & tradition

The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko, originally opened in 1978 as the Hakone Prince Hotel, represents a significant chapter in Japan's post-war architectural and hospitality history. Designed by Togo Murano, one of Japan's most influential modernist architects, the property embodies his philosophy of integrating buildings harmoniously with their environment. Murano, known for his ability to blend traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern functionalism, conceived a circular structure that gently curves around a central courtyard, maximizing natural light and framing the magnificent lake and mountain views from every possible vantage point.

This design was revolutionary for its time, moving away from purely functional boxes towards organic forms that respond to the landscape. The choice of materials—natural stone, wood, and concrete—further grounds the building in its setting. Over the decades, while the property has undergone thoughtful refurbishments to update amenities and comfort, a deep respect for Murano's original vision remains palpable. The Prince Hotels group, known for their high standards, has carefully maintained the property's unique character, ensuring that its historical and architectural significance is preserved. The hotel thus stands as a living museum of modern Japanese design, offering a continuity of refined hospitality that subtly weaves into Hakone’s long-standing tradition as a luxurious escape, a tradition that dates back centuries with its hot springs attracting everyone from samurai to modern-day elites.

Baths & water

The onsen experience at The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko is undeniably a highlight, designed to leverage the natural hot springs of Hakone with an emphasis on both privacy and stunning natural views. The therapeutic properties of the water, coupled with the serene environment, provide a profound sense of rejuvenation.

Public Onsen (Yubana-no-Yu)

The main communal bathing facility, Yubana-no-Yu, is a sanctuary of relaxation. While not directly overlooking Lake Ashi, its design evokes a deep connection with nature through large windows that frame lush garden views. The baths themselves, constructed from natural stone and wood, are spacious and immaculately maintained. The indoor bath offers a soothing warmth, while the adjacent outdoor rotemburo provides the invigorating contrast of fresh air against the mineral-rich hot water. The water itself is a simple thermal spring, typically clear and smooth to the touch, celebrated for its purported benefits in easing muscle tension, promoting circulation, and softening the skin. This classification of onsen water is generally mild and suitable for prolonged soaking. Amenities here are comprehensive, including high-quality toiletries, ample changing facilities, and a dedicated relaxation lounge.

Private Open-Air Onsen (Yubana-no-Yu Annex)

For those seeking an elevated degree of intimacy and exclusivity, the private open-air onsen baths within the Yubana-no-Yu annex are an exceptional offering. These individually reservable baths are a true indulgence, each designed to provide a secluded soaking experience amidst verdant natural surroundings, and some offering partial views. Reservations are typically required and often incur an additional fee, reflecting the premium experience. The ability to enjoy the tranquility of a traditional Japanese hot spring entirely undisturbed, perhaps under the stars or the dappled sunlight, is a significant draw for many guests.

In-Room Private Onsen

Certain premium rooms and suites at The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko are equipped with their own private open-air onsen, an ultimate luxury. Imagine sinking into a soothing hot spring bath on your private terrace, with the expansive panorama of Lake Ashi and possibly Mount Fuji unfolding before you. This unparalleled convenience and privacy allow guests to bathe at their leisure, creating a deeply personal and unforgettable onsen journey. The water quality here is consistent with the main spring, ensuring the same therapeutic benefits.

Tattoo Policy

As is customary in many traditional Japanese onsen establishments, guests with visible tattoos are generally requested to use the private bathing facilities, whether the reservable private onsen or the in-room options, to ensure comfort for all patrons. It is always advisable to inquire directly with the property when making a reservation for their most current and specific policy regarding visible tattoos.

Rooms & architecture

The architectural brilliance of Togo Murano is perhaps most acutely felt within the guest rooms themselves. His signature curvilinear designs manifest in the gentle flow of the interiors, ensuring that the stunning natural environment outside is always the focal point. The hotel’s unique circular layout means that a vast majority of its 100-plus rooms offer captivating views.

Design Philosophy

Murano's design ethos prioritized an organic integration with nature. The rooms, while modern, eschew stark lines for a softer, more inviting aesthetic. Large windows are not merely openings but carefully composed frames for the picturesque scenery of Lake Ashi, the surrounding forests, or, on clear days, the iconic silhouette of Mount Fuji. Materials are natural and sophisticated, with rich wood tones, elegant textiles, and understated lighting creating an atmosphere of serene luxury.

Room Types

While exact configurations vary, rooms typically range from comfortable twins and doubles to more expansive suites. Many feature private balconies or terraces, essential for fully immersing oneself in the landscape. The Panoramic View Rooms are particularly sought after, offering unobstructed vistas across Lake Ashi, often paired with glimpses of Fuji. For the ultimate indulgence, the Lake View Suites with Private Open-Air Bath represent the pinnacle of luxury, combining spacious living areas with the intimate experience of a personal onsen terrace.

Amenities and Comfort

Regardless of category, each room is appointed with contemporary amenities to ensure a comfortable stay. Plush bedding, comfortable seating areas, high-speed internet, and well-designed bathrooms with premium toiletries are standard. While primarily a Western-style hotel, there’s a subtle nod to Japanese aesthetics in the minimalist decor and the meticulous attention to detail. The arrangement of furniture is always thoughtful, directing the eye towards the magnificent outside, ensuring that even when simply relaxing indoors, one feels deeply connected to Hakone's natural splendor. The overall ambiance is one of timeless elegance and quiet sophistication, a perfect sanctuary after a day of exploration or onsen indulgence.

Dining

Dining at The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko is an experience crafted to complement the hotel's luxurious setting, emphasizing seasonal ingredients, artful presentation, and impeccable service. The culinary offerings celebrate both Japanese traditions and sophisticated international cuisine.

Japanese Dining (Nadaman Garden)

Nadaman Garden is where traditional Japanese haute cuisine, or kaiseki, truly shines. The Nadaman brand itself carries a prestigious legacy, and its Hakone outpost maintains this standard with grace. Here, guests can anticipate a multi-course dinner that is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. The menu is meticulously crafted to reflect the shun (seasonality) of ingredients, sourcing fresh seafood from nearby Suruga Bay, prime cuts of meat, and local Hakone vegetables.

A typical kaiseki meal begins with an appetizer of delicate seasonal bites, followed by a pristine sashimi selection showcasing the ocean’s bounty. Subsequent courses might include a savory clear soup (suimono), a perfectly grilled dish (yakimono) such as local fish or Wagyu beef, and a simmered dish (nimono) highlighting seasonal vegetables. The progression of flavors and textures is carefully orchestrated, moving from light and refreshing to rich and satisfying. Presentation is paramount, with each dish resembling a miniature work of art, served on exquisite ceramics. The dining experience is completed with a rice dish (shokuji), pickles, and a delicate dessert. The ambiance in Nadaman Garden is one of refined tranquility, with large windows offering garden views, enhancing the connection to nature.

Western Dining (Le Trianon)

For those who prefer a taste of classical European cuisine, Le Trianon offers a sophisticated alternative. This elegant restaurant specializes in French fine dining, reinterpreting classic dishes with a focus on fresh, locally sourced Japanese ingredients. The setting is grand, often boasting panoramic views of Lake Ashi, making it an ideal choice for a romantic evening. The menu typically features expertly prepared meats, fresh seafood, and rich desserts, accompanied by an extensive wine list.

Breakfast

Breakfast at The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko is an equally substantial affair. Guests can typically choose between a traditional Japanese breakfast set, featuring grilled fish, miso soup, rice, and an array of pickles and small dishes, or a Western buffet or set menu, offering pastries, eggs, bacon, fresh fruit, and coffee. Both options are designed to be hearty and satisfying, preparing guests for a day of exploration or relaxation. The service throughout all dining venues is discreet, attentive, and professional, characteristic of Prince Hotels' commitment to excellence.

Local area

The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko’s prime location on the tranquil southern shore of Lake Ashi positions it perfectly as a luxurious base for exploring the rich tapestry of Hakone. This region is a treasure trove of natural beauty, historical sites, and world-class museums, catering to a diverse range of interests.

Lake Ashi

Directly at the hotel's doorstep lies the magnificent Lake Ashi. Guests can easily partake in a scenic cruise aboard one of the charming "pirate ships" that traverse the lake, offering breathtaking views of Mount Fuji on clear days, particularly stunning during the autumn and winter months. The iconic Hakone Shrine and its striking Torii Gate of Peace (Heiwa no Torii), seemingly floating in the water, are readily accessible via boat or a short drive, providing a serene spiritual experience amidst ancient cedar trees.

Art & Culture

Hakone is renowned for its impressive collection of art museums. The Hakone Open-Air Museum (Chokoku-no-Mori), a pioneering outdoor gallery, showcases modern and contemporary sculpture against a backdrop of natural beauty, making art accessible and engaging. The Pola Museum of Art houses an exceptional collection of Western and Japanese art, nestled within a beautiful forest. For lovers of glasswork, the Hakone Venetian Glass Museum offers stunning displays and beautiful garden settings.

Nature & Adventure

A visit to the Owakudani Valley, a volcanic zone still emitting sulfurous fumes, offers a dramatic insight into Hakone's active geological nature. Here, one can taste the famous "black eggs" (kuro-tamago), hard-boiled in the hot springs, said to prolong one's life. The Hakone Ropeway provides panoramic aerial views of the caldera, Lake Ashi, and Mount Fuji, connecting various attractions. Scenic hiking trails abound for those wishing to explore the rich flora and fauna of the region.

History & Heritage

For a glimpse into Japan's feudal past, a short journey can lead to Odawara Castle, a beautifully reconstructed samurai fortress, and the Hakone Sekisho (checkpoint), a historical barrier on the Tokaido road that regulated travel during the Edo period. The revitalized checkpoint offers a fascinating historical recreation. The convenience of Hakone's public transportation network, including buses, trains, and ropeways, makes navigating these attractions relatively straightforward from the hotel, allowing guests to tailor their exploration to their preferences.

Practical tips

A stay at The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko is an investment in luxury and tranquility. To ensure a seamless and enriching experience, a few practical considerations are worth noting for the discerning traveler.

Booking Strategy

Given the property's popularity, especially for rooms with specific lake or Mount Fuji views and private onsen, booking well in advance is highly advisable. This is particularly true during peak seasons such such as cherry blossom (late March to early April), autumn foliage (late October to November), and the New Year period. Utilizing the hotel's official website or reputable luxury travel agencies is recommended for the most accurate information and any special packages. Inquire about any seasonal promotions that might include dining credits or activity discounts.

What to Pack

While the hotel provides a high degree of comfort and many amenities, bringing a few essentials will enhance your stay. Comfortable lounge wear is perfect for relaxing in your room or enjoying the common areas. A modest swimsuit is necessary for the onsen, although some guests prefer to use the provided modesty towels. Hakone's weather can vary, so layers are prudent, especially if planning outdoor excursions. Even in warmer months, evenings can be cool due due to the lake breeze and elevation. Comfortable walking shoes are essential for exploring the local attractions.

Service Expectations

As a luxury establishment within the esteemed Prince Hotels group, expect impeccable service. Staff are typically fluent in multiple languages, including English, and are trained to anticipate guest needs discreetly and efficiently. A service charge, usually around 10-15%, is customary in Japan and is generally added to the bill.

Check-in and Check-out

Standard check-in time is typically in the afternoon (e.g., 3:00 PM), and check-out is in the morning (e.g., 11:00 AM). Should your travel plans require earlier check-in or later check-out, it is worth inquiring with the hotel in advance, although this may incur an additional fee and is subject to availability.

Best Time to Visit

Each season offers a unique charm. Spring brings cherry blossoms, while summer provides lush greenery and pleasant temperatures for hiking. Autumn is spectacular with vibrant fall foliage around Lake Ashi. Winter, while colder, often offers the clearest and most breathtaking views of Mount Fuji, glistening with snow. Consider your priorities for activities and scenery when planning your visit.

Access

Reaching The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko is part of the scenic journey itself, as Hakone is well-connected yet retains a sense of secluded escape. The most common routes involve a combination of train and local transport.

From Tokyo

The primary gateway from Tokyo is Odawara Station. 1. Shinkansen (Bullet Train): Take the Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Odawara Station. This journey is swift, typically taking around 35 minutes. 2. Odakyu Romancecar: For a more direct and often more relaxing experience, the Odakyu Romancecar offers direct limited express service from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Hakone-Yumoto Station. This route provides comfortable seating and often scenic views, taking approximately 90 minutes. From Hakone-Yumoto, further local transport is needed.

From Odawara Station / Hakone-Yumoto Station

Upon arrival at Odawara Station or Hakone-Yumoto Station, there are several ways to reach The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko:

1. Local Bus: This is often the most convenient public transport option. Take a Hakone Tozan Bus bound for Hakonemachi-ko or Moto-Hakone-ko. The bus ride from Odawara Station takes approximately 50-60 minutes, while from Hakone-Yumoto Station it is about 35-45 minutes. Alight at the "Prince Hakone-mae" bus stop, which is directly adjacent to the hotel. Check the latest bus schedules as they can vary.
2. Taxi: Taxis are readily available at both Odawara and Hakone-Yumoto Stations. This offers the most direct and private transfer, albeit at a higher cost. The journey to the hotel from Hakone-Yumoto is roughly 20-30 minutes, depending on traffic.
3. Hotel Shuttle: While less common for direct station transfers, some luxury properties offer shuttle services. It is advisable to inquire directly with The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko when booking if they provide any complimentary shuttle services from key transportation hubs, especially for guests arriving with significant luggage.

Self-Drive

For those preferring to drive, The Prince Hakone Lake Ashinoko offers ample on-site parking. Driving allows for greater flexibility in exploring the wider Hakone region and beyond. The hotel is accessible via well-maintained roads, though mountain roads can be winding, and traffic around popular attractions can be heavy during peak seasons. The journey provides stunning views, particularly as one approaches Lake Ashi.